CORNISH UNDER ROAST No 2

Over the winter I have been “double posting”, with all the old traditional Cornish recipes. This is the last one, before I return to my usual posts - of mostly old ish bakes, a few new, and everything in between, as I trawl through old books, the WI, plus my folders of clippings that I have been collecting for probably 50 years. I have numbered this Under Roast “2” as there are so many versions, every family had their own ways and these were handed down from generation to generation. My first one used a base of finely chopped carrots and onions and skirt. BUT I have been talking to many of our older Cornish folk, listening to their memories about what their grannies did. So, this is a compilation of their recipes, the most usual and commonplace form of a Cornish Under Roast.

You need “good steak” says Cornish Recipes from the 1920s. By this and from what others have told me, this would be braising steak or rump. Cut not too thickly. Also you need a good floury potato. And onions, lot of them. A little seasoning, a little flour, maybe a little chopped parsley and lard or dripping to brush the sliced potatoes. Some made gravy to go with it, some not. Most used an old enamel baking dish, some quickly flash fried each side of the meat to give it a little colour, some not. I have not spoken to anyone who covered this dish.The top layer of potatoes were well browned, crisp and crunchy, underneath while.

For 2 portions

I have used thinnish cut rump steaks. You will need a shallow roasting pan, I used a cast iron one, and heated it to high then quickly fried the steak in a little lard [or dripping], turning the steak as soon as it browns. Turn the heat right down or off. Take about a dessertspoonful of plain flour and stir into the meat and juices. Season with a little salt and plenty of fresh ground pepper.

Peel and slice [not chop] a couple of medium onions and cover the meat. Season lightly.

Peel your potatoes and slice fairly thinly. These days, it is far easier with a mandolin. But if you have a good eye and a steady hand, slice by hand.

Brush the sliced potatoes generously with more lard or dripping and pop into a slow oven for about 3 hours. I cooked the above at 140C for half the time, then turned it down to 130C. Allow to rest for ten mins before serving.

Just lovely. Very simple, plain traditional cooking, nothing fancy or using other flavours to enhance the dish. 

Notes: 

I have spoken to a couple of folk who towards the end of the cooking time, popped a thin crust on the top for half an hour. Interesting.

I cannot see why you can’t lower the temp for a longer cooking time. There were no timers in the olden days!

There are still many old Cornish recipes that I have not repeated. Like Boiled Pasties and Suck Cream. They are all there if you look. I will gladly repost any requests. But for now, summer is here, rellies are coming to stay and holidays approaching. I will be continuing to post up until the end of August, then I will be having a 6 week break.

In the meantime, if you have an old recipe, please don’t hesitate to contact me and I will bake and photograph it. lauriemb@sky.com

The Cornwall Hospice Association will be bringing a second cookbook out before Xmas and I have been a contributor once again. The theme this year is “handed down”. More details on that before long! It looks great!