Thursday, 21 February 2019


SAFFRON CAKE


The queen of all Cornish cakes, instantly recognisable as part of Cornish culture and cuisine and much loved by everyone Cornish. Within my 1920s Cornish Recipe book by Edith Martin there are about ten versions. Years ago I discarded most, all have to be halved or quartered as our forebears made huge cakes! In the end I ended up using the recipe from the Falmouth area. But make no mistake, this cannot be rushed, and from start to finish I reckon it is close to 5 hours. Of course there is very little hands on time.

Saffron cakes are denser and heavier than buns, so they keep longer. My buns are very light and spongy. The fat content is far greater here than buns, the sugar content less too. This should make it heavier, and there is about half the quantity of yeast as well. The cake keeps very well for about 3-4 days.

While you can make one very large cake, I would rather use the quantity below and make two, using two small 1 - 1½lb loaf tins. Then freeze one. 

1 lb 2 oz strong plain flour
2 oz very finely chopped mixed peel
½ lb currants - I use at least 10oz - I hate hunt the currant
4 oz lard
3 oz butter
2 oz castor sugar 
generous pinch nutmeg
pinch salt
warm whole milk - about 9 fl oz with a teaspoon sugar
generous ½ oz fresh yeast. OR I generous heaped teaspoon Quick dried yeast, using a proper measure  [or half sachet dried ie about 4 gr].
saffron - depending on quality and how saffrony you want it.

Wrap the strands of saffron in some baking parchment and put them in a barely warm oven for 20 mins. Then, using a rolling pin crush the dried strands still in the paper, becoming powder like. I then generally add a few extra strands.

Rub the fat into the flour, salt and nutmeg, until it resembles fine breadcrumbs. Then just add the rest of the dry ingredients, including the Dried Quick yeast if using. Mix well.

Warm the milk and a little sugar to tepid and stir in the fresh yeast if using and saffron, leaving it for a while until it starts to froth a little. Made a well in the mix and pour in the liquid, bringing it all together with your hand and then tip it onto a floured surface and begin gently kneading until the mix is smooth. Just a few minutes, maybe 5.

Cover and place in a warm spot to prove. Do not expect it to double in size, like bread or the buns. The old 1920s book suggests “put a warm plate on it and stand it in a warm place until the mixture raises the plate”. That’s all I have ever had to go on!! I leave it for a couple of hours, then kneaded again for a minute and put it in your lightly oiled loaf tin[s] to prove again for an 1 - 1½ hours. In winter, you might a tad longer.

Preheat the oven to about 160C. My old book suggests 1¼ hours for large cakes and it takes all of that.  But I turned the oven down to about 150C after half the time.  For two smaller cakes, I bake for a total of about 50-55 mins, turning down to 150C after 20-25mins. The taste test? Absolutely delicious. Quite different from buns, much heavier. The big plus is that it takes no time at all, of actual work. Then the even bigger plus is that the cake is still moist and equally delicious the following day. Day 3 - the cake it still good.






The original picture is 5 years old and my photography has improved since then, so I have re baked and taken some new pics. I am reposting and slightly adjusting the write up as I now think it better to make two cakes with that quantity.

Just the most fabulous bake. Enjoy. But be patient.


Note: I now often use saffron powder and bring it back from Spain or there is a fab spice shop just inside Borough market if you are visiting London. I love Borough Market, great for foodies.

6 comments:

  1. My lovely Cornish friend talks about this cake so I will use your recipe, in Wales they have a cake similar called Bara brith .

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  2. I did not know Saffron Cakes were such a strong part of Cornish heritage! I grew up with pasties and saffron cakes, due to my Cornish and West Devon ancestors. I tried to find the cookbook you mentioned. is there a regional version of saffron cake for the Connor Downs area? thank you!

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  3. P.S. Delighted to come across your blog. thank you!

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  4. Nice i will try this recipe, i am Cornish so was raised on pasties, saffron cake and clotted cream.

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  5. I appreciate finding this recipe and your Cornish food blog. I'm surprised your photo does not show much color as a result of using saffron, and likely not much saffron taste. I suggest finding a good middle eastern saffron (best quality being from Afghanistan and Iran) which can be ordered online or purchased from middle eastern (or maybe Indian) markets. A tiny bit goes a long way, but the color, fragrance and taste far exceed any Spanish saffron. It is more expensive, but it's worth it.
    Example: etsy.me/2YIpMy3

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  6. Still good, day 3? I never knew a saffron cake that made it to day 3! Don't forget unsalted butter, thickly spread.

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